TYING SPRINGS

This page is all about tying springs. We'll start at the bottom with the bare frame of an old fainting couch, then show how to tie springs in a Victorian chair without removing them, and finally, show the details of how to tie a really flat, firm seat.

Above is our frame. I don't usually go this far tearing down, but this chaise needed some wood repairs, and the webbing was rotten.

Below are the tools and materials we use to place and tie springs.

Above on the left are the jute webbing that supports springs, and the jute spring-tie that fastens the springs to each other and the frame. On the right are upholsterer's tacks, about 3/4" long, sometimes used in tying, and hog rings, which I use to fasten springs to the webbing.

A word about tacks: Before staples, each end of the webbing was fastened to the frame with 6-12 tacks, and there were 2 tacks at each end of every piece of twine. Be aware that the wood in an older piece has inevitably dried, hardened, and become brittle. Although doing it the traditional way might seem attractive, you'll turn the frame to splinters with tacks. I'll use a tack partly driven in as a post to wrap the twine around when I need to get a length   tighter than I can hold and staple, (usually the 1st ties, at the front). And that's all. Everywhere else, I use staples. 9/16" are plenty big for fastening webbing and holding spring-tie twine.

Below is a webbing stretcher.

The webbing stretcher, guess what, stretches the webbing as it's fastened to the frame. With 1 end of the webbing fastened down, folded back over itself and stapled again, the rubberized end of the stretcher is put against the frame and the sharpened prongs on the other end are pushed through the webbing with the stretcher at an angle as shown. By pulling down on the webbing below the stretcher, you can take all the give out of a length of webbing. Keep the tension on while stapling the webbing to the frame. Cut the webbing a couple inches past the frame, fold over and staple again.   Don't get carried away and bend the frame!

Below the webbing's been fastened to the bottom of the frame, and the springs set in place.

Above, the springs are placed in their original positions. I marked their locations on the frame before we removed them. The back-to-front webbing is woven alternately over and under the side-to-side  strips. The springs are placed over the intersections of the webbing. The springs are fastened to the webbing with hog rings.

Above is what's called a 4-way tie. There are 4 knots on each spring. You can see the rows of springs in this piece alternate between rows of 2 and single springs. The ties that run from the back of the picture to the front are done 1st. Notice that, on the single springs, both back-to-front knots are on the top coil, while in the 2 spring rows, the knots closest to the frame are on the 2nd coil down. This helps keep the top of those springs flat. Scroll to the bottom of the page for more info.

Above is a different view of the 4-way tie. The long ties are done after the short ones. The 4-way tie keeps the tops of the springs straight over their bottoms where they belong.

Above is what's called an 8-way tie. There are 8 knots on each spring. This helps the springs to act as a unit, and provides more support for the burlap and stuffing which will go above them. The knots that were added to the 4-way tie to make it an 8-way are all on the top coils of the springs.

Below is another view of the 8-way tie. It looks more complicated than it is; remember it's done in stages. Note the tops of the springs are flat, not pulled down at the edges.

Now for something completely different: we're going to shift gears and look at tying the springs in a mahogany Victorian side chair, c. 1870-80 (Below).

This time we're not going to remove the springs. On the left the top view shows the original ties, basically a 4-way. All the knots are on the top coils of the springs, leaving them higher in the middle, and sloping towards the frame at the edges (see the picture directly below). To make a flat seat the upholsterer would hand sew hair and straw between two layers of burlap over the springs, making the stuffing thicker at the edges and thinner in the middle, to compensate for the shape of the springs. On the right, the view from the bottom shows the webbing, held by tacks and with its edges folded over. The springs are hand sewn to the webbing, typical of the period.

Below: How a 4-way tie with all knots on the top coils rounds the edges of the springs

Below, on the left, we're beginning to add new ties, starting with the center row of springs. On the right, there's a view from the side.

I want the springs flat because I'm going to use 1 1/2" of foam for the seat instead of sewing straw and hair. I also want to tie the springs tighter to make a firmer seat, given the size and age of my customer. To that end, I use two lengths of twine to tie the 3 springs instead of one.  There's a simplified view directly below. Notice that I've pulled the twine down through the webbing and fastened it to the bottom of the chair. This is to keep the spring coils from rubbing against the twine, or the twine rubbing on the inside edge of the frame when someone sits in the chair, causing it to fray and break.

How to tie springs using 2 pieces of twine for a flatter, firmer seat

Below, on the left, with the back-to-front ties done, we do the side-to-side ties. Notice as with the fainting couch that the knots closest to the frame on the left and right are on the 2nd coil down. On the right, the twine tying the rear row of springs is fastened to the bottom of the chair because the top coils of the springs would rub against the twine if it was fastened to the top of the frame. There's no one way to do this. Do what works.

Below on the left, we've completed the 8-way ties. All the added knots are on the top coils of the springs. On the right, we've put new webbing under the springs and will fasten them with hog rings. You can see the rows of staples, and the ends folded over.

A visual review of the ways springs can be tied

The picture above shows the "rounding" that happens when all the knots are made on the top coils of the springs.

Above is the way I usually tie springs left-to-right. It's much better than the rounded example above for making a flat seat. You can use it back-to-front if the springs are left at their original height-i.e., there's barely any tension on the twine, giving a soft seat.

Above is the 1st step in making a very flat surface with 3 springs that I like to use. With this tie & the one below, I can compress the springs by getting the twine pretty tight, giving a firmer seat and still keeping the top coils flat with each other.

Above, the 2nd twine is added to get the front of the middle spring and the spring on the right to the height of the spring on the left.

 

Below, I've colored the 1st piece of twine yellow, and the 2nd blue, to make the knots easier to see.

 

Here's some final thoughts:                                                                                                       1. Tying springs makes them act as a unit, and the ties support whatever's above. I almost always use an 8-way tie, but it's common to find just a 4-way tie when there's a separate seat cushion(s) above.                                                                                                                               2. It's important to make a knot wherever the twine crosses a spring-that's 2 knots per spring. If you don't, the twine will rub against the metal and break prematurely.                   3. Don't get carried away with the webbing stretcher. You can literally break a frame with too much tension.                                                                                                                             4. Double check your ties by pushing down of the springs to simulate sitting on the seat, particularly at the front, to be sure the ties aren't going to hit the frame, where they'll be cut on the inside edge.

How-To Tutorials:    Upholster a Wingback     Tie Springs     Button Tufting     About Leather                                      About Us:    Home Page      Contact Us      FAQS      For Sale                                                                       Pictures/Estimates:   Antique Chairs     Antique Sofas     Strictly Victorian    Dining Chairs     Daybeds and Ottomans     Wingbacks    Scandinavian     Modern Chairs     Modern Sofas     Recliners    Commercial